Soothing Skincare Claims: What Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate Research Can Support
A panelist says a serum stings less than the previous version. The evaluator sees little change in facial redness. Both observations can be valid. The International Forum for the Study of Itch describes sensitive skin in terms of unpleasant sensations, including stinging and burning, and notes that skin can look normal or show erythema (Misery et al., 2017). For a cosmetic development team, that leaves a concrete question: Which change would count as success for this product?
What the Lactic Acid Challenge Actually Found
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate offers a useful example of how much the endpoint matters. Yashiki et al. compared two creams containing 5% lactic acid, one with 0.2% Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate and one without it. The researchers recorded several types of discomfort. In the results section, they reported a trend toward lower itch-related discomfort scores in the six participants analyzed. The paper calls the procedure a stinging test, but the result described in that section concerns itching. That distinction matters if the claim under review is specifically about stinging or burning.
The same paper examined nerve growth factor gene expression in cultured keratinocytes. Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate suppressed the increase induced by substance P under the test conditions. The authors left open what accounted for the sensory trend in the human test. For R&D, the cell result provides a reason to investigate skin comfort, and the small human study helps identify a sensation worth following up.
Put the Intended Benefit into the Brief
| If the product is intended to… | Assess this in the finished product |
|---|---|
| Feel more comfortable on application | Ask participants to rate the sensation named in the brief, such as stinging or burning, at set times after application. |
| Make visible redness less noticeable | Assess redness at consistent sites under standardized conditions using a visual grade, calibrated imaging or an appropriate instrument. |
| Support barrier recovery | Track transepidermal water loss (TEWL) over a defined recovery period. Record hydration separately if the brief also includes a moisturizing benefit. |
The distinction can change a formulation decision. If panelists report that a prototype stings immediately, record when it starts and how long it lasts. Review the base before deciding that it needs an additional soothing active. If the base already meets the team’s tolerability criteria and the question is whether Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate adds a comfort benefit, compare matched versions with and without the ingredient. Keep the other actives and the application conditions the same, and check the final pH of both versions.
It also changes what to look for in a supplier’s evidence pack. When a slide says “soothing,” look at the endpoint on the graph. A cell marker, an itch score and a facial redness grade answer different questions. For a brief centered on application comfort, the human challenge data are a starting point. For a brief centered on visible redness, ask for a study that measured redness in a relevant finished formula.
FAQ
Can a product feel more soothing without changing visible redness?
Yes. Skin comfort and visible redness can be assessed separately. Choose the endpoint that matches the intended claim.
What did the human study of Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate find?
In six participants analyzed, the authors reported a trend toward lower itch-related discomfort scores with the cream containing Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate under a lactic acid challenge.
Is 0.2% a recommended use level?
It was the level tested in that study. Use it as a study reference when assessing a level for your own formula.
Can a keratinocyte study support a finished-product soothing claim?
It can provide a rationale for selecting an active. Evaluate the intended benefit in the finished product to substantiate the claim.
What should I ask for when reviewing a supplier’s soothing data?
Ask what material and formula were tested, what the control contained, and which endpoint the study measured.
References
- Misery, L., et al. (2017). Definition of sensitive skin: An expert position paper from the Special Interest Group on Sensitive Skin of the International Forum for the Study of Itch. Acta Dermato-Venereologica, 97(1), 4–6.
- Yashiki, K., Ohto, N., Kawashima, Y., & Nakahara, T. (2017, J-STAGE listing). The Effect of Dipotassium Glycyrrhiza on Sensitive Skin Care. Journal of Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan, 50(4), 334–339.
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